On Friday I nipped down to Freemason's Hall in Holborn to take a look at Fashion Scout's Ones to Watch showcase for CUB Magazine. Not quite as glamourous as the bigger shows, but nevertheless interesting to watch. I wrote little summaries for each of the designers showcasing for the online section of the magazine (where there's also show reports on the rest of LFW, too).
George Styler: Styler's multicultural
influences were obvious in what was (judging by the audience's applause) the
most successfully received showcase. The only show to feature designs for men
and women, all of the models wore headpieces made out of plaited hair,
reminiscent of Heidi braids, but with added tassels, sequins and adornment.
Applique, pom poms, wool, sequins and embroidery covered his designs;
unabashedly clashing patterns and contrasting textures abounded. A particular highlight
were the heavy knits, showing Styler's expertise in knitwear design and
inspiration taken from the traditional embroidery in many cultures.
Sarah Ryan: A break
from the colourful offerings of the other three designers, Ryan's collection of
black and muted tones was by no means boring. Having previously worked with
Gareth Pugh, Ryan seems to have taken inspiration from his modern gothic
aesthetic, weaving leather into clothing that almost resembled harnesses.
Textures kept the mainly black collection varied and interesting, with the
skill of the design taking centre stage. A testament to Ryan's penchant for
playing with scale and form, the collection also featured giant bags, often
dwarfing the models themselves: some even appeared to have rose-like forms
woven into them, as if a bunch of flowers were peeking out of the top.
Carrie-Ann Stein: Inspired by
working-class culture, London-based Central St Martins graduate Carrie-Ann
Stein brought out a collection full of fun and humour. The oversized and
unusual silhouette of her graduate collection remained - huge, square cut
shoulders fitted with large eyelets and a trapeze shape ruled the collection -
but this time interspersed with sleek, sporty pieces. All the garments retain
Stein's idiosyncratic use of bright colour and offbeat patterns, featuring shop
signage, street images and textures. This collection showcases Stein's
development as a designer, taking her designs from sculptural pieces to
wearable items.
Hiroko Nakajima: Knitwear
label Hiroko Nakajima showcased a collection typical of their focus on colour
and graphics. Bold, bright colours were interspersed with monochrome pattern in
a luxurious array of sleek dresses, skirts and jumpers with new details such as
flared cuffs, capes and slightly too-tall beanies - topped off with chunky
clutch bags and sleek plaits for the models.
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